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Suit Jackets 101: What Every Beginner Should Know

 

When it comes to dressing professionally, a suit jacket is an essential piece of any man's wardrobe. Here are some key areas every beginner should focus on when shopping for the suit jacket that’s right for them.

Fit is key: The fit of your suit jacket is the most important aspect of your overall look. Make sure your jacket fits snugly around your shoulders, chest, and waist, and that the sleeves are the right length. Here are some quick guidelines to help ensure that your suit jacket fits properly.

Shoulders:

  • A suit jacket should sit comfortably and snugly on the shoulders with the top of the sleeve seams lying directly on top of the natural shoulder line. When you move your arms, the jacket should move with you without pulling or bunching up at the shoulders.

Chest:

  • The jacket should fit snugly but not be too tight around your chest area. To ensure the proper fit, button the jacket while standing straight. There should be enough room for you to move your arms comfortably without any tightness around the chest or back.

Waist:

  • The jacket should contour your waistline without being too tight or too loose. You should be able to button the jacket comfortably, without pulling or gaping between fasteners, and still maintain a sleek, polished look.

Length:

  • The jacket length should cover your butt. A good rule of thumb is that the bottom hem should end at your knuckles when your arms are relaxed at your side.

Sleeves:

  • The sleeves of the jacket should end right where the base of your thumb meets your wrist. When your arms are at your side, the jacket cuff should run, at max, a half-inch longer or shorter than your shirt cuff. Whichever direction you choose comes down to how modern your style.

Start with classic colors: A black or navy suit jacket is a timeless choice that will never go out of style. If you want to add some personality to your look, try a monogram or jacket liner to give your suit a custom, one-of-a-kind feel.

Choose the right material: The material of your suit jacket will determine how it drapes (hangs) and how it interacts with weather. Wool is a classic option, but you can also consider blends that include cotton, silk, or cashmere. Here are a few suggestions to get you looking in the right place. Keep in mind that these are examples and that other factors, such as the weight and weave of the fabric, can also affect how well a suit jacket performs in different weather conditions. Ultimately, the best option will depend on your personal preferences and the climate where you live.

Summer:

  • Linen is a lightweight and breathable fabric that is perfect for summer weather. It's claim to fame is moisture-wicking. That natural little feature will help keep you cool and dry all day long.

Fall:

  • Tweed is a heavy and durable fabric that is perfect for cooler temperatures. It's also water-resistant, which makes it great for rainy days.

Winter:

  • Wool flannel is a thick, soft fabric that is perfect for cold weather. It's excellent for insulating heat to keep you warm in the winter months.

Spring:

  • Cotton is a versatile fabric that is perfect for spring weather. It's lightweight and breathable, making it great for milder temperatures.

Pay attention to details: Details like buttons, pockets, and lapels can make a big difference to the look of your suit jacket. Make sure the buttons are sewn on securely, the pockets are functional, and the lapels are the right size for your body type. All of these features are customizable with Original Stitch. Feel free to take what you’ve learned here and build out the perfect jacket to suit your needs. Our highly skilled tailors will handcraft the garment to fit your exact measurements.